A faucet that drips once a second wastes thousands of gallons a year, and the sound is reason enough to fix it. The repair is simple once you know which of the four types of faucet you have.
Before you take anything apart
- Shut off the water. Close the two small valves in the cabinet under the sink, then open the faucet to check that the flow stops. If there are no valves, or they will not turn, close the main valve for the house.
- Put the plug in the drain, or cover it with a cloth. Small screws are drawn to open drains.
- Take photos as you go, and lay the parts out in the order they came off.
- Wrap the jaws of your wrench or pliers in tape so that they do not mark the finish.
Which type is it?
Two handles that turn several times and get tighter as they close: compression. This is the old style, found all over older Bergen County houses. A rubber washer at the bottom of the stem presses against a metal seat, and the washer wears out.
- Pry off the decorative cap, undo the screw, and pull off the handle
- Unscrew the packing nut, then unscrew the stem
- Replace the washer on the end of the stem, and the O-ring around it. An assorted faucet washer kit covers most sizes.
- If the drip comes back quickly, the metal seat inside the body is pitted. It can be replaced with a seat wrench, or you can replace the faucet.
One handle that lifts and swings: cartridge. Most modern single-handle faucets are this type.
- Look for a small set screw, often hidden under a cap or at the back of the handle. It usually takes a hex key.
- Lift off the handle, then remove the retaining clip or nut
- Pull the cartridge straight up. It can be stiff. Note which way it faces.
- Take it to a hardware store and match it exactly, or look up the faucet's brand and model. Many makers supply cartridges free under a lifetime warranty if you call them.
One handle on a rounded dome: ball. These have several small parts. Buy the repair kit for your brand, which includes the springs, the rubber seats and the cam, and replace everything at once.
One or two handles that move very smoothly, with a wide cylindrical body: ceramic disc. These rarely fail. Lift out the cylinder, clean the rubber seals underneath and the openings they sit in, and replace the seals if they are worn.
Putting it back together
Reassemble in reverse order. Do not overtighten: snug is enough. Remove the aerator from the tip of the spout first, then turn the water on slowly and let it run for a minute to flush out any grit. Put the aerator back.
If the leak is somewhere else
- Around the base of the spout: worn O-rings on the spout. Lift the spout off and replace them, with a little plumber's silicone grease.
- Under the sink: check the nuts on the supply lines first, then the drain connections. A quarter turn is often all it takes.
- From the handle when the water is on: tighten the packing nut slightly.
Repair or replace?
If the faucet is more than fifteen or twenty years old, badly corroded, or you cannot identify the parts, a new faucet is often the better use of an afternoon. Replacing one is within reach of a patient beginner. The awkward part is lying on your back in the cabinet.
When to call a plumber
- The valves under the sink will not close, or leak when you touch them
- The parts are seized and will not come apart without force
- The pipes in the cabinet are corroded
- The drip is from a shower or tub valve set into the wall, which is harder to reach and easier to damage
Find a licensed plumber near your town.